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Articles search results for steel main bearing cap

Showing 1 to 8 of 8 articles
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Cylinder head - What can easily be achieved

During a discourse with the editorial staff at Mini Mag, it was decided the build feature presented an ideal opportunity to demonstrate just exactly what such an engine build is capable of in days where it's generally believed you have to have an all-singing, all-dancing 1380cc engine to have an enjoyable road burner - leaving those with very limited budgets a little depressed. During a discourse with the editorial staff at Mini Mag, it was decided the build feature presented an ideal opportunity to demonstrate just exactly what such an engine build is capable of in days where it's generally believed you have to have an all-singing, all-dancing 1380cc engine to have an enjoyable road burner - leaving those with very limited budgets a little depressed. So the idea was to finish the engine off using a relatively 'mild' specification to maximise drivability. The camshaft used was the fantastically versatile Swiftune Racing SW5 profile that provides drive from nowhere up to 7,000rpm - d

Engine - Identification Data Updated

If you have the engine tag still attached to the engine - just in front/below the thermostat housing - or perhaps the original engine number in the log book then the following should help you determine which engine you have. For Metro units, see 'Engine - Metro identification data'. Original engine identification numbers 850cc 8A Austin up to 25000 8MB Morris up to 25000 8AM Austin & Morris 25000 onwards 8AH Austin & Morris Automatic 8AJ Austin & Morris closed circuit breathing 8AK Austin & Morris automatic with closed circuit breathing 8WR Wolseley Hornet & Riley Elf 8AC Moke 85H/101 All variants 1969 onwards Note: third suffix letter denotes compression type, L = Low, H = High, e.g. 8AM/U/H101 denotes high compression. 998cc 9WR Wolseley Hornet & Riley Elf Mk2, pre closed circuit breathing 9AD Austin, Wolseley Hornet & Riley Elf Mk2 with remote type gearbox and closed

Cooling - Controlling water temperature

The introduction of the Cooper S proved to be a testing time for the Mini’s systems, but conveniently provide a guideline as to what the standard cooling system was capable of - that used on the ‘S’ was marginal to say the least!

It wasn’t uncommon for many S’s to spew water from their overflow pipes when ever it was doing anything other than a steady 70 miles an hour, over-heating eventually caused through water loss. Perhaps some deductions can be made from the following…

There are a number of elements involved in controlling water temperature. Some confusion over what to sort first when over-heating occurs leads to wasted time and money, and possibly terminal engine damage. Maximum power is usually generated from A-series engines at 70 – 75 degrees C (160 to 170 degrees F). The main problem with this on a road car is the oil’s unlikely to get hot enough for maximum performance – the results outlined previously.

Cylinder head - Suitability basics

Whatever else owners do to their Minis by way of interior/exterior modifications or none at all, a very large proportion desire and search for an increase in engine performance.

See bottom for useful part numbers.

Now this may not be super-sonic speed-inducing power, it could just as well be for maximum economy. In either case, it's the engines volumetric efficiency (VE) under scrutiny - it's ability to breath in as much correctly proportioned air/fuel mix as possible in any given situation. Although the induction/exhaust system plays an important part, there are effectively two major factors that dictate performance increases - the camshaft and cylinder head. The induction and exhaust elements (stage one kits, exhaust systems, etc.) and camshafts are covered in various other articles in my 'Corner'. So here we'll have a look at cylinder heads and dispel some of the myths and legends surrounding them.

Engine - Identification data

If you have the engine tag still attached to the engine - just in front/below the thermostat housing - or perhaps the original engine number in the log book then the following should help you determine which engine you have. For Metro units, see 'Engine - Metro identification data'. Original engine identification numbers 850cc 8A Austin up to 25000 8MB Morris up to 25000 8AM Austin & Morris 25000 onwards 8AH Austin & Morris Automatic 8AJ Austin & Morris closed circuit breathing 8AK Austin & Morris automatic with closed circuit breathing 8WR Wolseley Hornet & Riley Elf 8AC Moke 85H/101 All variants 1969 onwards Note: third suffix letter denotes compression type, L = Low, H = High, e.g. 8AM/U/H101 denotes high compression.

Lubrication - Oil pumps

Essential to the well being of every engine is its oil pump and oil. Much in the same way as the heart and blood is deemed relatively important to us humans! It's also another of those greatly misunderstood and, unfortunately, misrepresented subjects connected to engines.

An alarming number of so-called A-series engine specialists would have you believe that once parting with a veritable bundle of your hard earned readies on that mega motor, what you really need to keep it in good health is a high-pressure/high-flow oil pump. Seems a sensible consideration - except in the A-series world it's impossible. Oh, there are pumps that will give better flow rates than others, but high pressure? Absolutely not.

Oil pressure is regulated by the relief valve in the block of an A-series, not in the oil pump as with say a Ford. Yeah, you know - the one that gets jammed, causing heart failure as you believe your crank bearings have dissolved, and is a pig to get out.

Cylinder head 2022

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Cylinder heads 2022

Get to know your classic mini Cylinder Heads

Historical Article - October 1993 - Mini Spares Centre News

Mini Spares Centre News For some reason, discs (brake rotors for the foreigners amongst us!) for the 'S'/early GT have become more and more difficult to come by. Well, actually, that is not totally accurate. I guess that statement should read "decent quality discs". I know there is a supply of, erm, EEC country manufactured discs purporting to be high quality, but they are extortionately expensive, and are only totally (?) effective...
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